Monday 23 November 2009

Round the world without leaving Bremerhaven


The distinctive shape of the Klimahaus in Bremerhaven


Axel sounds like a good bloke. He can discuss with Sardinian shepherds (in excellent Italian) the threats to their livelihood, and debate with nomads in Niger (in fluent English) the subtleties of the latters' relationships with women.

Axel is a real person. He's an architect from Bremerhaven. In the early noughties, he and a film crew followed the 8th line of longitude around the world. His diaries, his films, his photos and his souvenirs form the permanent exhibition at the Klimahaus in his home town.

The Bremerhaven 8° Ost exhibitionm, which opened in summer 2009, shows how we could all 'travel' but more sustainably, ie through the experiences of someone else.

I found the entry fee horribly high... It's Euros 12.50 for an adult, but fortunately, as a certified 'Praktikantin', I qualified for a reduction, though at Euros 8.50 it still hurt. The experience kicks off with a schmaltzy film - supposedly to set the scene, although the point escaped me and I simply wanted to flee. After this, though, you move to the start of your 'trip' and I suddenly got a tingle of expectation, perhaps because the first country you 'visit' is Switzerland, and I've long wanted to go there.

There are so many facets to the exhibition I missed several or failed to see the significance of some items until several countries on I realised there was a theme. However, although there are threads that run through each area, there is great variety in the way visitors are engaged. And, unusually, though it is hands-on and clearly relies on a great deal of technology, no-one will be alienated by their real or imagined lack of tecchy know-how or confidence with things computer generated. In fact, in retrospect, it feels quite old-fashioned because you engage with recognisable things rather than 'could be anything' metal boxes with flashing screens.


In 'Switzerland' you can race cows, ring cow bells and find out what climate change is doing to the glaciers

For example, in Switzerland there are cows to milk. As you knead, 'milk' goes into the pail, and if you lean against the animal you 'smell' the farmyard and hear the voice of the farmer encouraging you. You also 'climb' to the top of a mountain. Once there, you can admire the view while you catch your breath, write your name in the 'Gipfelbuch' , and... try your hand, or rather your lungs, at 'Jauchzen'. You watch and listen to Axel taking lessons from his host family surrounded by mountain peaks, admire his gung ho attitude, wonder at the echoes that bounce back, then go into the 'studio' through the door marked, 'On air'. Here you can listen to two examples, see the frequencies, and then.... yeeee, hoooo, haaayyyyaaaa, try it yourself. You record your attempt at caterwauling (sorry 'whooping') then play it back to see how it compares with those of the experts.

In each country, you 'read' Axel's diary (poor bloke, apart from in the Sahara it never seemed to stop raining), 'meet' the family he stayed with, and hear him discuss the climate-related issues they face in their daily lives.

I usually suffer 'museum fatigue' either immediately I enter into an exhibition space or very soon after, due to the lack of natural light and air. Four hours after handing over my Euros and entrusting my luggage to the garderobe personnel, I was still reading the information panels (every entry is summarised in English), trying out new experiences (crossing a hanging bridge made of 'vines', stepping onto a 'polder') when the 'This museum will be closing in 15 minutes' announcements started.

On 'Sardinia' you get a bug's eye view. You also have the chance to 'change' climatic conditions


Consequently, Axel returned to Bremerhaven without me and I'll never know who he met in Cameroon and how the people there live, or the name of his host on the Hallig (Holm) of Langeness in Northern Friesland. But that's okay because I've been to the 'Sahara' where I sweltered, and 'Queen Maud Land' in the Antartic, where I tried on the life-preserving but so very heavy boots, mitts and jumpsuit from the dressing up box, and froze in temperatures of(allegedly) -20C. And, as all I had to do was get to Bremerhaven, which I did by train, it might have felt like it cost the earth to get in, but my carbon footprint, at least, was negligible.

My one regret is that there isn't a way for visitors to take 'souvenir' photos of themselves in each country and be able to email them to themselves or pick them up as a postcard at the end of the exhibition. Mind you, I'd want two... one to keep as well as one to send. But actual or digital, such mementos would generate great publicity for the exhibition. On a par with writing a blog about the experience!

Update: a document from the Klimahaus PR office has alerted me to the following statistics:
The overall interior of the Klimahaus totals 160 400 cubic metres of which 11 800 sq m are given over to four exhibition areas. These are the Journey, the Elements, Perspectives and Opportunities.

This means, in the four hours I was in the Klimahaus, I didn't even see a quarter of what was on offer. Or try the exhibition restaurant. Or visit the shop. But that's what travelling is like, there's always something you don't have time for and have to save for a return visit.

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